Hello, I am Ellie, the maker behind Hook Yarn Carabiner. I am so inspired by the outdoors and first began designing patterns when I spent my honeymoon living out of a van and traveling around the southwest rock climbing and backpacking for a whole year with my new husband. Yarn and hooks were such a wonderful and easy hobby to bring along on the trip and I loved creating with beautiful backdrops like Yosemite and the Grand Canyon. Crocheted allowed me to feed my inner creativity while still making useful and fun things. When we returned to the Pacific Northwest, I decided to start a blog to share my new designs and my love of combing crochet with the outdoors. I hope you enjoy my patterns, and especially this cardigan pattern. Each one is a reflection of what I see and experience in the outdoors and I hope you see my passion in my work.
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Supply List
-Cascade Yarns Sarasota Yarn (Weight: 3/light - 3.5 oz, 314 yds) Size XS: 550 yds Size S: 650 yds Size M: 750 yds Size L: 850 yds Size XL: 950 yds (yardage estimates are given for the cropped version of this sweater)
-Size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook and Size G (4 mm) crochet hook
-2-3 half-inch buttons
Gauge
4" x 4" Square = 16 st x 7 rows on size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook using Offset Filet Stitch
Pattern
The pattern is worked by first making the back panel, then continuing with adding the left and right panels worked on either side of the back panel, making it into a "U" shape. The sleeve panels are worked flat and then seamed onto the cardigan. Then the front panels are seamed to the back panel. Next, the sleeve ribbing and waist ribbing are added and finally, the neckline scallops are crocheted. This pattern is available in sizes xs, s, m, l, and xl, according to Craft Yarn Council standards. Stitch () and row counts [] for each size are given in order from smallest to largest (xs, s, m, l, xl). Row count is given in number of ch-1 spaces or "windows."
BACK PANEL
Begin with size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook; everything except the ribbing in the ASSEMBLY step will be crocheted with this size hook.
ch (60, 66, 72, 78, 82) approximately (18", 20", 22", 24", 26")
Row 1: ch 3 (counts as dc + ch 1). dc in 5th ch from hook. *ch 1, sk 1 ch, dc in next ch. Repeat from * to end of row. # of ch-1 sp: [30, 33, 36, 38, 41] turn
Row 2: ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1). dc in first ch-1 sp. *ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp. Repeat from * to end of row. # of ch-1 sp: [30, 33, 36, 38, 41] turn.
Repeat row 2 until row (24, 24, 28, 28, 32), the panel should measure approximately (12", 12", 14", 14", 16") long - remember that you will be adding on 6 inches of ribbing at the end, making this cropped cardigan a full length of approximately (18", 18", 20", 20", 22")
For a full length, rather than cropped, cardigan, repeat row 2 until row (32, 32, 36, 36, 40), the panel should measure approximately (16", 16", 18", 18", 20") long. Make the first and second front panels the same length as the back panel, if altering.
Without fastening off, continue on to the first front panel.
FIRST FRONT PANEL
Row 1: ch 4. (counts as dc + ch 1). dc in first ch-1 sp. *ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp. Repeat from * to ch-1 sp: (13, 15, 16, 18, 19). turn. You should only have worked just shy of halfway across your back piece. # of ch-1 sp: [15, 16, 18, 19, 20] turn.
Repeat row 1 until row (24, 24, 28, 28, 32), the panel should measure approximately (12", 12", 14", 14", 16") long, same as the back panel. Remember to lengthen this panel if you lengthened your back panel!
Fasten off and weave in ends.
SECOND FRONT PANEL
Join yarn to opposite corner of back panel.
Row 1: ch 4. (counts as dc + ch 1). dc in first ch-1 sp. *ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp. Repeat from * to ch-1 sp: (13, 15, 16, 18, 19). turn. You should only have worked just shy of halfway across your back piece. # of ch-1 sp: [15, 16, 18, 19, 20] turn.
Repeat row 1 until row (24, 24, 28, 28, 32), the panel should measure approximately (12", 12", 14", 14", 16") long, same as the back panel. Remember to lengthen this panel if you lengthened your back panel!
Fasten off and weave in ends.
SLEEVE PANEL (MAKE 2)
The sleeves are worked flat from shoulder to elbow. They will be sewn to the shoulder of the main cardigan, before being sewn together into a tube and before the ribbing is added to the end. Pick between 3/4 or full length sleeve finishes below.
ch (40, 48, 48, 54, 60). Approximately (12", 14", 14", 16", 18" ) long.
Row 1: ch 3. dc in 5th ch from hook (counts as dc + ch 1). *ch 1, sk 1 ch, dc in next ch. Repeat from * to end of row. # of ch-1 sp: [20, 24, 24, 27, 30] turn.
Row 2-(8, 10, 10, 12, 14): ch 4. (counts as dc + ch 1). dc in first ch-1 sp. *ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp. Repeat from * to end of row. # of ch-1 sp: [20, 24, 24, 27, 30]
Row (9, 11, 11, 13, 15): ch 4. (counts as dc + ch 1) dc next two ch-1 sp together (dctog). *ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp. Repeat from * to last two ch-1 sp, dc last two ch-1 sp together. # of ch-1 sp: [18, 22, 22, 25, 28] Now move on to the final rows for either the 3/4 or full length sleeve options below:
3/4 LENGTH SLEEVE FINISH
Repeat row 2 until row (14, 16, 16, 18, 20), the sleeve panel should measure approximately (7.5", 8.5", 8.5", 9.5", 10.5") long - remember that you will be adding on ~6 inches of ribbing at the end.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
FULL LENGTH SLEEVE FINISH
Repeat row 2 until row (19, 21, 21, 23, 25).
Row (20, 22, 22, 24, 26): ch 4. (counts as dc + ch 1) dc next two ch-1 sp together. *ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp. Repeat from * to last two ch-1 sp, dc last two ch-1 sp together. # of ch-1 sp: [16, 20, 20, 23, 26]
Repeat row 2 until row (30, 32, 32, 34, 36), the sleeve panel should measure approximately (16", 17", 17", 18", 19") long - remember that you will be adding on ~6 inches of ribbing at the end.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
ASSEMBLY
SEAMING
Begin by laying your main "U" shaped section out flat (wrong side up) and line up the halfway point of your sleeves with the halfway point of the "U," right where the split for the two front panels occurs.
Make sure the long side of your sleeves is flush with the main section and single crochet the sleeves on. Alternate crocheting the chain spaces and posts together down the line.
Next, lay the whole make down and fold it in half, wrong side up. Single crochet front and back sides together, starting at the bottom of the waist and ending at the sleeve on both sides. Alternate crocheting the chain spaces and posts together down the line. Turn right side out.
RIBBING
I recently learned this technique for adding ribbing to top-down makes and it is perfect for this cardigan. TL Yarn Crafts has a really helpful video (https://tlycblog.com/crochettopdownbeanieribbing/) if you find any of the following instructions confusing. You will be crocheting all of the ribbing with your size G (4 mm) crochet hook.
BOTTOM RIBBING (ALL SIZES)
Beginning with your size G (4 mm) crochet hook, fasten onto the right front corner at the base of your cardigan (with the piece laying flat, right side out, in front of you and make sure your ribbing is facing the right way.
ch 22. Approximately 6" long.
Row 1: dc in 3rd chain from hook and down to end of chain. sl st into next two ch-1 sps on base of cardigan. turn [20]
Row 2: No chaining, sk sl sts from previous row. sc in first st. Insert hook in same st, yarn over, insert hook in next st, yarn over again, draw last loop directly through 2 loops on hook. *insert hook in same st as last completed st, yarn over, yarn over, insert hook in next st, yarn over again, draw last loop directly through 2 loops on hook. Repeat from * across. turn. [2o] Keep your tension loose on this row!
Row 3: Ch 2. dc blo in each st across. sl st into the next two ch-1 sps on base of cardigan. turn. [20]
Repeat rows 2 and 3 around base of cardigan to opposite corner.
Finish off and weave in ends.
SLEEVE RIBBING (ALL SIZES)
Beginning with your size G (4 mm) crochet hook, fasten onto one of the sleeves at the seam.
ch 22. Approximately 6" long.
Row 1: dc in 3rd chain from hook and down to end of chain. sl st into next two ch-1 sps on edge of sleeve. turn [20]
Row 2: No chaining, sk sl sts from previous row. sc in first st. Insert hook in same st, draw up a loop, insert hook in next st, draw up another loop, draw last loop directly through 2 loops on hook. *insert hook in same st as last completed st, yarn over, draw up a loop, insert hook in next st, draw up a loop, draw last loop directly through 2 loops on hook. Repeat from * across. turn. [20] Keep your tension loose on this row!
Row 3: Ch 2. dc blo in each st across. sl st into the next two ch-1 sps on edge of sleeve. turn. [2o]
Repeat rows 2 and 3 around the sleeve to the beginning. Once there, turn sleeve inside out and slip stitch ends of ribbing together, making sure the seam is on the inside and not visible.
Finish off and weave in ends. Repeat for steps above for other sleeve.
SCALLOPED NECKLINE
Beginning with your size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook, fasten onto the left front corner at the base of your cardigan (with the piece laying flat, right side out, in front of you).
ch 1. *sk 3 st and tr five times in fourth st. sk 3 st and sl st in 4th st. sc in next st. Repeat from * around entire neckline of cardigan. You should have two scallops in each ribbing section, and scallops distributed evenly around the neckline. There is a sc st between each scallop. Once out of the ribbing section you will be counting chains, rather than stitches since you will be working on the sides of your two front panels.
Finish off and weave in ends.
Finally, add two or three buttons to the bottom two or three scallops on the left side (when wearing the cardigan), and use the scallops on the opposite side to secure them.
Your cardigan is complete! Throw it on over a shirt or dress and wear it with jeans or slacks. It's a versatile garment that can be worn in many ways, I can't wait to see how you style yours! It's all in the details with this design! The open stitching gives this lightweight cardigan beautiful drape and stretch. The scalloped neckline, v-neck design, and low buttons make this a unique sweater design and I hope you enjoy it!
