Hi everyone, I’m Gillian, the designer behind Loopy Handmade. It’s a real honor to be featured on the Hook Nook blog so I’m really excited to be here sharing this crochet pattern with you.
Ever since I can remember I have loved making things with my own hands. Having a creative outlet is so important to me for many reasons; I find it therapeutic and it gives me a focus to forget the stresses of everyday life. Just give me a ball of yarn and a hook and I’m instantly in my happy place!
A little bit about me…I was born and raised in Scotland and graduated from Glasgow School of Art with a Bachelor’s degree in Printed & Knitted textiles. After graduating I worked as a knitwear designer for a few UK childrenswear brands including Next and The Disney Store and then moved to Amsterdam where I was a product developer for Tommy Hilfiger for 11 years working on their Sportwear and Womenswear collections. Knitwear has always been both a career and a hobby to me and I can’t ever imagine life without it.
I learned how to knit when I was very young but crochet is more of a recent passion. Many years ago my best friend taught me how to crochet (legwarmers for my cat) but I didn’t find enough time to practice and soon forgot the basics (to my cats delight). A few years ago I decided to make a major change in my life and took time out to travel around the world. That is when I decided to learn crochet again - a hook and a ball of yarn seemed like the perfect hobby to take on the road. I read some beginner books, watched some YouTube videos and very quickly it became my current passion.
I started designing my own patterns a year ago which has taken my love for this craft into a whole new direction. I take inspiration from the places I visit on my travels around the world so each pattern name has a special memory attached to it. I love creating designs that are simple, modern and full of texture which any level of crocheter can enjoy.
I had so many amazing experiences during my travels and learned a lot; mainly that it’s the simple things in life that really matter! Living in this fast paced world where things are expected instantly can be exhausting at times so it is more important than ever to keep our traditions and crafts alive and return to simpler things. I would love to encourage more people to slow down and create something unique with their own hands and heart. Slow fashion is not only good for the planet but also good for the soul.
I just spent Christmas and New Year in Bangkok where I designed this pattern and I am so happy to share this with you as Thailand has a special place in my heart.
Supply List
Approx. 153yd (140m) of #5 bulky weight yarn (I used one skein of We Are Knitters, the Petite Wool, 100% Peruvian Highland Wool in colours taupe, natural and gray)
Hook size USA size L-11 (metric 8mm) for body
Hook size USA K-10.5 (metric 7mm) for ribbing
Scissors
Darning needle
Tension/Gauge (worked in sc)
10cm height x 10cm width = 12 rows x 10 stitches
Finished Size (Adult)
Height 8.5in (21.5cm) measured from top of crown to edge of beanie through centre
Circumference: 19in (48cm) measured around opening edge. Stretches to fit 23in (58.5cm) circ.
Key
This pattern is written with US crochet terms
ch = chain stitch
sc = single crochet (in the UK this is known as dc = double crochet)
dc = double crochet (in the UK this is known as tr = treble crochet)
hdc = half double crochet (in the UK this is known as a htr = half treble crochet)
sl st = slip stitch
st = stitch
blo = back loop only
rep =repeat
rnd = round
YO = yarn over
Notes
This unisex beanie is made from the top down in one continuous flow, you will start at the crown and end at the ribbed brim with only one small gap to close at the brim. It is aimed at the beginner (with some experience) to intermediate.
Please pay attention to the yarn that you select as bulky #5 yarn can come in different thicknesses, and will affect the gauge and size of the beanie. I recommend making a swatch to test your gauge before proceeding.
This pattern uses the magic circle method to start (if you prefer not to use the magic circle you can ch4, sl st into the first ch to form a loop, ch1 and work the remaining stitches in that loop).
The ch1 or ch2 at the start of each round is your turning ch and does not count as a stitch.
Always slip stitch into the first sc or dc of the round and not into the turning chain.
The number of stitches you should have at the end of each round is mentioned between the ()
From round 6 onwards you will not be increasing the number of stitches in the round.
From round 6 onwards you will always start each round with a ch1.
For rounds 7, 10 & 13 you make make a hdc in the very last stitch.
For all rounds (apart from 8, 11 & 14) you will make your first stitch into the same stitch where you made your sl st.
For rounds 8, 11 & 14 you will make your first sc in the next stitch (the stitch after where you made your sl st and ch 1) and you will finish the round with a (1sc, 1dc) in the very last st.
When making the brim you will work each sc into the blo of each st after step 2.
Pattern
Starting from the top of crown:
Rnd 1: Make a magic circle, ch 1, *1 sc, 1dc into the ring, rep from * 4 more times around the ring, pull the tail end to tighten the ring and close centre hole, join with a sl st into the first sc, (10).
Rnd 2: Ch2, make (1dc, 1sc) into same st where you made the ch2, continue all around making (1dc, 1sc) in each st, join with a sl st into the first dc, (20).
Rnd 3: Ch1, 1sc in same st as join, (1dc, 1sc) in next st, 1dc, (1sc, 1dc), *1sc, (1dc, 1sc), 1dc, (1sc, 1dc), rep from * all around, sl st into the 1st sc to join, (30).
Rnd 4: Ch2, 1dc in same st as join, 1sc in next st, (1dc, 1sc) in next st, *1dc, 1sc, (1dc, 1sc) in next st, rep from * all around, sl st into the 1st dc to join, (40).
Rnd 5: Ch1, 1sc in same st as join, 1dc, 1sc, (1dc, 1sc) in next st, 1dc, 1sc, 1dc, (1sc, 1dc), *1sc, 1dc, 1sc, (1dc, 1sc), 1dc, 1sc, 1dc, (1sc, 1dc), rep from * all around, sl st into the 1st sc to join (50).
Note: Increasing rows have now stopped. At this point the beanie should measure approx. 5.25in (13.5cm) in diameter. If your measurement is not close to this please recheck your gauge/tension before continuing with the rest of the pattern.
Rnd 6: Ch1, 1dc in same st as join, 1sc, *1dc, 1sc, rep from * all around, sl st into the 1st dc to join, (50).
Rnd 7: Ch1, 1sc in same st as join, 1 dc, *1sc, 1dc, rep from * all around, 1hdc in last st, sl st into the 1st sc to join, (50).
Rnd 8: Ch1, 1sc in next st, 1dc, *1sc, 1dc, rep from * around, (1sc, 1dc) in last st, sl st into the 1st sc to join, (50).
Rnds 9-16: Keep repeating rounds 6, 7 & 8 in sequence until you have completed 16 rounds in total. You will see the beanie starting to take shape.
Do not cut the yarn, you will now start to make the ribbed brim. The height of your beanie through the center should be 7”.
For the Ribbed Brim
Change hook size to 7mm for the brim as this will create a nice snug fit.
Step 1: Ch7. The first 6 ch’s will be the height of the brim and the extra 1 ch is the turning ch and does not count as a st.
Step 2: Make 1sc into the 2nd ch from hook, make 1 sc in each ch along, (6sc).
Step 3: Sl st into the next 2 st’s on the beanie edge (as shown by the needles in the photo).
Note: For the rest of the brim you will work each sc into the blo of each st.
Step 4: Now turn your work around to work back along the row you just made. Sk the 2 sl st and work 1sc into the blo of each st you made in the previous row (see needle in photo), then ch1 and turn.
Step 5: Make 1sc into the 2nd ch from hook, continue making 1 sc into the blo of each st along the row, (6sc).
Rep steps 3, 4 & 5 until you have worked all around the edge of the beanie.
When you reach the end of the pattern you will be left with one small gap in the brim to close.
Finishing
Turn your beanie inside out so the wrong side is now facing you. You can close the gap on the brim by using a whip stitch or sl st. I chose sl st for the beanie in this pattern.
To seam with a sl st, insert your hook from the bottom up through the foundation ch, then through the corresponding sc on the last row. YO and pull through all loops. Continue repeating this method until gap is closed.
Tie a knot to secure the end. Fasten off and weave in any loose ends. Turn your beanie inside out again so the right side is facing. You will have a straight joining seam.
If desired add a yarn pom pom or faux-fur pom pom to the beanie, this is entirely a personal choice. Please note: Loopy Handmade only uses faux-fur and never real fur!
Your Bangkok Beanie is now ready to wear!
I hope you all enjoy the Bangkok Beanie crochet pattern.
Thank you to Jessica and the entire THN team for this amazing opportunity. I’m so happy to be a part of this maker community; it is so welcoming, inspiring and encouraging. It really feels like we’re all in this together so I would love to say a big thank you to all the amazing talented makers who helped me with testing this pattern, you all rock!
I would love to see your own unique versions of this beanie so don’t forget to share them and tag me on Instagram. You can find more of my designs on Ravelry and Etsy and if you would like the PDF version of this pattern with the full step-by-step photo tutorial it will be available in both shops in March 2019.
It was an absolute pleasure to share this pattern with you all. Happy crocheting friends!
